I decided that I should first make sure that all the MR2 struts fit in their locations before any strut compression takes place. I am lining up and starting to cut out the VW bug’s front strut holes. I got their positions by using a plumb bob.
With both of the VW bug strut holes cut out, I will need to compress them to determine spring compression vs. ride height. I will start this process with a stout piece of uni-strut and a couple of strong turn buckles.
I know this is a crappy video. But…After cutting out the posterboard template from the VW bug’s drivers side strut hole, I am transferring it to the passenger side. I will next cut this out and fit both strut springs.
I slowly cut the VW bug sheetmetal out around the MR2’s drivers side rear strut spring. It appears that everything will fit OK. I will use this hole to trace out a template to create the hole for the passenger side strut as well.
I now have the VW bug’s body all the way down against the platfrom once more. I need to clearance the rear inside fender wells to make way for the MR2 struts. I am using the foam board again for the template. This is a tight fit and has been a concern from day one.
I can now lower the VW bug body back down onto the frame. I am aligning it with the short pieces of all-thread as before but it looks like I will have to remove a very small amount of steel from the front. Close, very close.
These two new slide shows show the construction of the MR2 3SGTE front and read engine cage bracing. This is the last of the lower frame members for now.
I took a bit more of the VW bug sheetmetal out of the lower rear rails, the rear inner fender wells and the front fire-wall. I will now test fit it again and see if there is anything else in the way.
With the addition of all the new framing materials, I need to remove a bit more of the VW bug sheetmetal. I have created a body mount point with the sheetmetal from the the rear fender wells. A little more and I will be ready to set the body back on.
Hurray, the VW bug’s lower frame is complete as far as I can get it for now. I will still need to remove the frame and flip it around a bit to get to all the welds. Next up, compression of the struts to determine ride height and strut top location. So far so good.