Once I had determined where the VW Bug cross-member holes should be, I removed the saddle blocks and drilled straight holes with the drill press. These holes will be my pilot holes for the bigger drill bit.
I need to drill out the MR2 cross-member bolt holes in the VW plate frame. I need to be very careful to align the holes perfectly so the bolts will be vertical through, not only the steel blocks but the frame unit as well.
Now that I marked the MR2 3SGTE cross-member holes, I can set it up to drill out the VW Bug frame members. As you can see the paint idea worked pretty well.
After bolting the VW Bug saddle blocks to the rear frame members, I can now reinstall and realign the frame members to mark the rear MR2 3SGTE cross-member bolt holes.
Now with the holes drilled out in the VW Bug frame saddle blocks, I need to bolt them to the 3SGTE frame members. After carefully aligning them I will drill out and mount these blocks to the rear frame members.
With my bolt holes drilled out in my VW Bug saddle blocks, I can now mark the locations where they will bolt up to the MR2s rear cross-member. I need to be careful how I position the blocks to insure that the main mounting bolt (vertical through cross-member) will be exactly centered.
I can now finish up all 8 bolt holes in the VW Bug saddle blocks by using a larger drill bit. These holes are to mount the blocks to the main frame plates in order to attach the MR2 cross-member.
I now need to drill out the bolt holes for the VW frame saddle blocks. These blocks will be used to bolt the main frame units to the MR2 lower cross-member.
I need to attach the VW Bug’s rear plate frame members to the Toyota MR2’s rear cross member. I plan on doing this by adding steel blocks at the mount points and drilling vertically through both the frame plates as well as the new steel blocks.
The secondary VW Bug framing units have now been bolted onto the main rails. The two plates on both sides of the Toyota MR2 3SGTE motor will now be welded together.